A Landscape Plan for the Backyard

Update: This plan evolved quite a bit, and through various events we are now re-landscaping. We are, yet again, making a plan.

October, 2025

Plan with the wish list added

Original Post: We had to have a new sewer line installed in our backyard and though it was financially devastating, it does allow us an opportunity to landscape the yard. 

Now, landscaping is just about always an expensive venture, and we are, of course, broke. So how do we take our backyard from a chaotic and cluttered space to an appealing outdoor oasis on a near zero budget? Well, I'm not sure yet.

I do know that having a plan is essential, for both the project and the budget. So since I don't have any money, I'll start with a wish list plan for the project.

The first step, then, was to create a drawing of the space, complete with measurements. 

My husband and son tackled that task, and the drawing gives us a foundation for what we can -and can't do- in the space.

I scanned the drawing into my imaging program, and added what I want in the new landscape. That's depicted in red.

We would like a covered patio and a work space for Bob for cutting wood and doing building type things. We would like a grassy area and a small rock garden on the west side of the house.

Future Site of Bob's Workspace

We can't extend the roof over the patio, because that costs about a bajillion dollars. So we're opting for shade sails, and we'll make a video showing you how to install those.

For the work space, we'll pour a smaller concrete slab next to the shed, using the tree to the south side for shade. We'll add a frame work of sorts to create a drop shade facing west. This gives Bob a space to work in without having to stand in the heat of the sun. We'll share video on that part of the project as well.

We'll cultivate a lawn in the area directly behind the house, and create a grassy area, using rye grass in the winter and Bermuda grass in the summer. The lawn is smaller, and won't require much water, an important consideration here in the desert.



The Mess on the West Side

A rock garden in the small area on the west side seems a viable solution, and for now, that's the plan. But the large evergreen there drops needles by the pound, and keeping the garden tidy may be a problem.

Shifting to the east side, we have a strip of land that lies between the sidewalk leading to the shed and the block wall fence. A section of the sidewalk had to be removed when the new sewer line was installed, and we'll have to pour a new section.

Right now, the east strip is a lumpy, rocky pile of nutrient deficient soil. The sunlight is brutal in that space; during the summer it gets about 12 hours of direct sunlight. I don't want flowers, or cacti or succulents or really, any living thing there. So right now, it's just a big question mark.

So that's my basic plan for the backyard. The shade sails provide relief from the sun; the work space keeps the construction zone away from the house; the lawn softens the landscape; and the rock garden to the west means Bob doesn't have to try and mow the lawn back there.

Now I just have to figure out how to pay for all this.

Aphids and the Precipitator 360

Zucchini Blossom Under Attack

Update: Aphids haven't changed, and I've used all kinds of home remedies as well as chemicals. Still, they invade. 

October, 2025

Aphids are evil little creatures that invade gardens, stabbing innocent plants with their needle-sharp stylets and sucking out the life force. The brave plants struggle against the invaders, but alas, they have no real defense. Yellowish spots riddle the now curling leaves, and the plants no longer have enough energy to grow, to thrive, to produce flowers and fruits and vegetables.

It is left to us humans to battle the hordes of greenish yellow, or black, or brown, soft-bodied insects that, rumor has it, are born pregnant.

Walk into a room full of gardeners and ask them how to get rid of aphids and you'll get as many answers as there are people in the room.

But one answer prevails: spray the devils with a concoction of ingredients found in almost any pantry. Every gardener has his or her own recipe for "Death to Aphids" spray, and they all work on the same principle; the spray clogs their teeny tiny breathing holes and they die of suffocation.

Precipitator 360

 
Garlic spray is a popular weapon. My recipe is one spray bottle filled about two-thirds full with water, with two smashed garlic cloves added and left to stand overnight. Add about a teaspoon of liquid dish soap in the morning along with enough water to almost fill the spray bottle. Shake vigorously, and then spray the plants.

But any recipe you use, be it with garlic, lemon juice, ground chili peppers, vinegar or rubbing alcohol, must be applied not only to the top of the leaves, but to the undersides of the leaves as well. The enemy congregates there, on the darker undersides, and there you'll see the eggs, ready to hatch and continue the war.

I use the Precipitator 360, a spray bottle with a rotating nozzle that allows you to spray upward, so as to get under the leaves, as well as spray directly downward.

The nozzle on typical spray bottles only allows you to spray in one direction - forward. Try to twist the bottle around to spray the underside of leaves and the nozzle doesn't work. You have to pull each leaf up and point the nozzle directly at it.

With the Precipitator 360, you only need to twist the nozzle, hold the bottle just to the side of the plant, and spray. The evil creatures are drenched in your death spray, and, hopefully, die quickly.

A man for whom I have great respect suggested that I employ chemical warfare, and kill the hordes with Bayer Advanced Insect Control. He tells me the product is safe to use as long as I don't spray the veggies when they're ready to harvest. In other words, I can use this stuff to control the aphids and other damaging insects up to about four days before harvesting, and of course, wash the veggies thoroughly after picking them.

If my garlic spray doesn't do the trick, I just may have to resort to chemical weapons. If any readers have any suggestions as to how to fight these evil creatures, please leave a comment, and share your experience with other gardeners.

The Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit

Update: The information is the same now as when this was first posted, in February of 2013. The exception is I stated the cost of the kit as about four dollars. The price has changed, so check with your local nursery outlet for current costs. (2025)

You can watch a demonstration video of how to use the Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit on YouTube

How to Use the Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit in Your Garden

Before spring planting, which here in Phoenix is as early as January but no later than the end of February, I add a fresh layer of garden soil to the beds. I like to use the permaculture method, meaning I don't till the soil or turn it over. Rather, after the plants are removed, I just add another layer of soil, so as not to disturb the existing microbial community within the beds.

I also like to test the soil for nutrient value at that time to ensure each bed can support its intended plants.

The Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit is available at home improvement stores and garden centers at a reasonable cost - around $4 a kit. Now, I have seven beds in my garden. So if I test each bed, I can expect to pay around $30 to test the entire garden if I buy the kits separately. Buy in bulk, though, and that cost is reduced.

Why bother testing? Well, if you know what the nutrient content is in your soil, you can better choose which fertilizer to use,or better understand why certain plants aren't thriving.

For example, broccoli needs a lot of nitrogen. If the broccoli leaves look yellowish and the plants aren't producing heads, you can use a test kit to determine if the soil nitrogen level is too low. Add blood meal to the bed and your broccoli hopefully will recover and thrive.

Macro Nutrients
The Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit lets you test for nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, all macro nutrients essential for healthy vegetables.

Nitrogen (N) is directed to leafy growth and stem growth. Without sufficient nitrogen, the plant is unable to properly develop its 'vascular system', the means by which nutrients are transported throughout the plant.

Phosphorous (P) is essential to the process of setting fruit. Without phosphorous, the plant struggles to develop a strong root system and is unlikely to flower. If a plant doesn't flower, it doesn't produce fruit or develop seeds for propagation.

Potassium (K) helps plants resist disease and is akin to a multi-vitamin; it promotes general overall health in the plant.

My Assessment
I like using the Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit for my garden beds. It's an easy test to use, and each unit costs only about $4 at local outlets, but you can find it online in bulk; you'll get a decent discount buying them that way.

It's an uncomplicated test that doesn't require anything more than a soil sample, water and a bit of your time. Essentially, I use the tests once a year and am satisfied with the product.

Kratky in a Can Update
Unfortunately, the strawberry plant installed in my coffee can Kratky system didn't survive. I don't fault the methodology of the experiment. Rather, the onset of cold weather and the plant's exposure to it likely damaged the roots - the water was a bit frozen the morning after I had forgotten to take the plant inside.

I want to repeat the experiment. A strawberry plant may not have been the ideal subject, either. I'm going to use sweet basil for my next test subject because we've had good luck with basil in other hydroponic methods; the herb is well suited to the watery environs of hydroponics.

Landscaping Projects
Spanish Dagger trees are common here in Phoenix, and you can get some tips on how to trim these long-lived agaves in our video, "How toTrim a Spanish Dagger Tree."

If you have an unwanted cactus in your yard, watch our video, "Removing a Small Cactus from Your Yard". 

And finally, we'll start planning for new landscaping, as the install of a new sewer line presented and opportunity to update the backyard. In an upcoming post, we'll show you what we come up with. 

Disclaimer: Ferry Morse did not supply me with this product. I paid for it myself.

Frostbit Garden and Starting Seeds

Frostbit tomato plants

Update: The strawberry plant in the Kratky can was transplanted, but failed shortly after. The seeds did fairly well, as I recall; a 60 to 75 percent is average for germination and reaching the seedling stage, and from there, about two-thirds of the plants come to fruition. And the tomatoes were tasty, both from the box and bowl.

October, 2025

Despite my efforts during the cold snap, most of my vegetable plants died of frostbite. A sad thing indeed.

The plants in the aquaponics grow bed survived, but there's little growth. When we built the aquaponics system, we placed the bed in a partially shaded area for two reasons. The fish barrel needs to be in full shade so the fish survive the summer heat. They don't mind the cold - goldfish can live beneath ice- but they don't like those high temperatures.


Aquaponics bed

The bed is in partial shade because, again, the summer heat is so brutal. However, the area is getting too little sunlight in these winter months, and the cool weather greens are not growing as quickly as they should. So we'll be doing some changes to the system within the next few weeks and try to find the optimum location for the grow bed and the fish.

The beds in the soil garden out back are pretty well emptied, so I've started my seeds, and hope I'll have seedlings by mid-to-late February. Then, I'll have to start thinking of protecting the tender plants from the heat in June and July, as everything comes to harvest.

Starting seeds

While most of the country plants in early spring, in March or even as late as April, we in Phoenix need to plant in January and February. By June or July, veggies like tomatoes and cucumbers are curling up their leaves and calling it quits. It's just that hot. So we set our seeds outside in January, while everyone else shovels snow.
I've started seeds for a variety of plants: okra, snap peas, beets, sweet peppers, jalapeno peppers, Anaheim peppers, and red hot cherry peppers. I've also planted yellow squash, zucchini squash, yellow pear tomatoes and beefsteak tomatoes, and cucumbers.

Before I put the seedlings into their beds, though, I'll test the pH of the soil, as well as nutrient content. Before I do that I'll add some new compost and top soil. We'll video the testing and share that with you.

Strawberry plant on 1/23/13

Meanwhile, my tomatoes are ripening in the box and in the bowl. I'll roast those up and use them on pizza.

The strawberry plant in the Kratky can is still with us, and though the one stem is a little weak, we're seeing some new growth. So far, so good.

Saving the Tomatoes

Draping the garden against the cold

First Published Jan 11, 2013

Update: This is still relevant today, as for many, many generations, gardeners have gathered green tomatoes and stashed them safely against the harsh elements of winter.

Thanks for reading. October 2025

In Phoenix, Arizona, the growing season is nearly year round; people plant tomatoes in September and October because we have such mild winters. Sometimes, though, even the valley of the sun experiences near freezing temperatures and we have to cover up the plants, from ornamentals to small shrubs to the vegetable garden out back.

Our back garden looks a bit like a refugee camp for wandering veggies. Drive through the neighborhood and you see old sheets and blankets draped over hedges. But if it saves the plants, then drape we shall.

Ripening tomatoes in a box

One problem I'm having though, because of this cold snap, is the green tomatoes won't ripen. It's simply too cold. So I'm going to try and ripen them off the vine (though tomato plants are not actually vines). According to B. Rosie Lerner, writing for Purdue Yard and Garden News, the optimum temperature range for tomatoes to ripen on the vine is 68 to 77 degrees, not usually a problem here in Phoenix in the usually warm and mild winter months.

This year, though, it's cold. So I've taken the large green tomatoes off the plants and I'm going to try and ripen them in the house.

There's no dearth of suggested methods for ripening tomatoes off the vine. I can place them in an open paper bag with a banana. The ethylene gas from the banana hastens ripening.

Ripening tomatoes in a bowl

I can put them in a crate cushioned on straw or crumbled newspaper, and set the crate in a warm, unlit place. Sunlight isn't an essential element, so say some, when ripening tomatoes in this fashion.

Others say to put the green tomatoes on a window sill, and let the sun do its job.

I don't have any bananas at the moment, nor do I have a crate. But I do have a light bulb box and a bowl. So I'll put a few tomatoes in the box and set then out of the light, and some in a bowl in indirect sunlight.

Then we'll see what happens next.

The strawberry plant is still alive

In the meantime, the Kratky in a Can experiment is doing well; the strawberry plant is still alive. I bring it in at night during this cold weather, and set it out again in the early morning.

But cold weather notwithstanding, it's time to get ready for spring. I'm going to start seeds for greens and tomatoes and summer squash, but that's all for another post.  

Welcome to just az gardens

First Published Jan 2, 2013

Update: The just az gardens have changed quite a bit since this post. The aquaponic bed has been replaced with a sleeker version, and the back garden has undergone a renovation, a conversion to container gardening. But the post is still relevant, and as good a place as any to start.

Thanks for reading. October, 2025

An original aquaponics bed

Gardening is as much an art form as it is a science. It is a hobby and a means of survival. You can grow fruit and vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees. You can grow plants in soil, as we do in our own vegetable garden, or you can use hydroponic methods, in which the plants are nourished with nutrient rich water - no soil required.

And then there is aquaponics, the system based on a symbiotic relationship between fish and plants, in which fish water is used to nourish plants installed in a grow bed. You can learn more about aquaponics in our video series on YouTube.

For us, gardening isn't just about growing plants. It's about finding different ways to grow them. At just az hydroponics, we focus on soilless methods of growing plants. We believe it's important to understand and utilize these methods because in places like the southwest desert, soil gardening is a challenge.

But we also have a backyard garden, because I like the feel of soil in my hands, and the way gardening in soil creates a connection to the earth itself. My backyard garden is akin to a meditation room, except my journey to inner piece includes calluses and cuts and bug bites.

The video in this first post of just az gardens is our experiment with the Kratky method of hydroponics. You can read more about this method on the justaz.com website. Over the next few weeks or so, we'll track the progress of the experiment and post the results in this blog.

Next week, we're going to look at what to plant in January in your soil garden in Phoenix, and preparing for a container garden on the front porch.