The Summer Winter Garden

Update: The garden has been renovated and looks very different now, in October of 2025.  You can see the changes in this video and learn more about growing potatoes. (2025)

How to Use Potato Grow Bags from HomyHoo: A product demonstration

In the last couple of weeks or so, it has rained quite a bit, about four inches. Here in the valley of the sun, that's a considerable amount. We have dust storms, windstorms, thunderstorms.

These are the monsoons. Monsoon season is upon us.

Right now, we are caught in this pseudo season, a mixture of high temperatures and high humidity, followed by brief but intense storms of various sort. The monsoons come during the last few agonizing weeks of summer, a time of burning sunlight and thickened air, and of indoor activities.

Devil Grass

No one I know keeps a full garden in the summertime. The weather is either too hot or it's raining buckets. You keep your hardy perennials alive, such as rosemary, but you would have harvested your veggies weeks ago. This is our version of wintering over.

And some of the photos here are the equivalent of those images of the beds in gardens west of the Rockies in the last cold days of winter, the soil still half frozen. Here, though, in the valley of the sun, after four inches of rain and brutally high temperatures, I have Devil Grass.

Tomatillo and Cayenne in a barrel

Devil grass is Bermuda grass and it can't be killed, merely subdued. It does not give in easily though, and I may have to, am likely to, resort to chemical warfare. I could pull the grass by hand from the nooks and crannies of my garden, but that doesn't really subdue the green devil as much as it encourages it to try harder. So, chemical warfare it is.

Looking at What's Alive

Early in the year, I scattered seeds around the garden in a free form fashion. The result was a wild hodgepodge of seedlings popping up, and more than half of the

seedlings did mature to yield a fair amount of veggies. The tomatoes did especially well.

Now in the miserable heat and pounding rains grow tomatillos and peppers, both sweet and hot. And one arugula plant. The herbs are doing well, but there's a lot of empty space in the beds.

Empty space

Soon, though, the hot weather will abate, and Phoenix gardeners can

leave the confines of their air-conditioned homes and feel the funky Phoenix soil in their fingers once again.

Thinking about a Remodel

Garden beds are my preferred method when soil gardening, but the low beds do present some issues. The reason the Devil Grass is so prolific is that the beds are watered nearly every day. The water feeds the grass roots, and the walkways fill up with the stuff. As I say, it needs subduing.

Puppy with peppers in a barrel

The second issue is my back. I have what is clinically referred to as a bad back. Every year, it gets a little harder to kneel down and get back up. So, we may be raising the beds.

We also have to consider how to provide shade for the garden in the late spring and throughout the summer months. Those beds with perennials or heat tolerant plants need protection. We need to find an efficient way to add shade when needed and store the material away when it's not.

Starting Seeds

Hardy oregano

Come the first of September, I'll start seeds for the soil garden. It will be a fall garden, but here a fall garden is tomatoes, zucchini, cucumber, squashes, carrots, and all manner of greens and herbs.

While gardeners in other parts of the world put their gardens to bed, and spend winters in front of a cozy fire reading seed catalogues, I'll be gardening.

And when summer comes around again, and the others are reaping the rewards of what they have sown, I'll be in front of the air conditioning vent, reading seed catalogues.

The All New Square Food Gardening Book and the Free Style Method

Update: I still use this book from time to time, though I don't exactly follow the method. It's still a good book. (2025)

Flowering Cucumber

Recently I purchased Mel Bartholomew's book, "All New Square Food Gardening. A retired

efficiency expert and engineer, Bartholomew saw row gardening as a waste of space and resources. Practices such as thinning seedlings and irrigating whole tracts of soil that weren't planted bothered him, and he set about finding a new way to grow food, herbs, and flowers.

What is Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening is built around the idea of planting a 4 foot by 4 foot box that has been divided into 16 squares, each section being 1 square foot in area. The gardener plants a different 'crop' in each square. How many plants are in any given square depends on how far apart the seeds should be planted.

I can plant one cucumber in one square and 16 radishes in another square. According to Mr. Bartholomew, the system allows for a bounty of veggies in a 4 foot by 4 foot bed because nothing takes up more than one square foot.

The idea is brilliant and no doubt very effective, and I'm anxious to give it a try.  Our author tells me to lay down landscape fabric, position the bed on the fabric, and fill it to a 6 inch depth with his special formula soil mix.

There Might Be Some Problems, Though

Okra from Seed

The special formula? One third vermiculite, one third peat moss, and one third blended organic

compost. Basically, this is a potting mix, not soil, and that might be a problem. Here in Phoenix, even in winter, potting mixes dry out incredibly fast. Vermiculite is no match for our dry air and bright sun.

Mr. Bartholomew also says gardeners can water the garden bed with cups of sun-warmed water. Simply leave a bucket of water near the bed and with a small plastic cup, use the water for the garden, watering each square as needed.

Sun-warmed water here may be too hot for potting mix, and I would likely have to water several times a day. A cup of water does not a deep watering make. I think maybe a more climate appropriate watering system may be necessary.

The Free Style Method

But for right now, I'm far less efficient and organized and otherwise square foot. In my last post, I regaled you with tales of tossing seeds about the garden without any sort of pattern or layout in mind. Many of my seeds are past their prime, and many, of course, failed to germinate. That's okay. Some, though, are doing surprisingly well, in spite of the 110+ temperatures.

Bean Plant on the Rise

I've got okra and burgundy beans sprouting up, and tiny hints of jalapeno plants. I've even got some zucchini that just might make it after all. I imagine this is the type of gardening that would cause Mr. Mel Bartholomew to shake his head and mutter something about a lack of efficiency and wasted space and the soil being less than loamy. I imagine he would predict catastrophic failure for this garden.

His (imagined) prediction may be right. Or not. As we move into September and October, though, gardeners in cooler climes are starting to wind down their summer crops, while here in the Valley of the Sun we'll be planting tomatoes and cucumbers alongside spinach and squash- as soon as the day time temps get below 100 degrees. Ah, the sweet cool of Autumn!

Free Style Gardening in the Summer Months

Update: This is a story of gardening in the desert. The heat is a challenge, and for the last few years I've kept a small garden on the front porch, including the aquaponics bed. Summers can be brutal, but we find ways to deal with it. (2025)

By the time the temperatures reach 100+ degrees I usually allow the soil beds to rest, covering them with cardboard or some sort of mulch. I water to keep the perennials healthy; the herbs and grape vine do fine over the summer. The soil itself is watered less frequently. The goal is to keep it moist, but not wet, and continue to provide an inviting environment for microbial communities.

Nearly Empty Garden Beds in July

This summer, though, is a little different. I, and numerous other gardeners, didn't have the wildly successful bounty of fruits and veggies to which we have become accustomed. While many in other parts of the country are still waiting to harvest their tomatoes, cucumbers, summer squash and assorted lettuces, we in the desert are done. We harvest in late spring, before the temperatures are too high, and the plants cease to produce. 

But somehow, the cycle got tilted off its axis this year, and other gardeners tell me their tales of woe:

• My squash never even flowered
• My tomatoes took too long to ripen
• My cucumber plants didn't even try this year
• Powdery Mildew is the bane of my existence

You get the idea.  But like most gardeners, I lament the poor season and prepare for the next, confident that the next harvest will be better.  

Pumpkin Seedling in a Pot

But as I was starting to start seeds in pots, I was struck by how many seeds I had, and that many may be 'past their prime'. So I thought, "Why not throw caution to the winds, and throw a bunch of these seeds into the garden and see what happens?"

I walked among the beds, poking holes in the soil and dropping in seeds. I made shallow trenches with a stick and sprinkled in seeds. Some seeds were simply sprinkled on top of the soil and left to the elements.  I didn't even put in garden markers. Just planted seeds.

Storing Seeds

Seeds are particular about their environment. To maintain its ability to germinate over a period of time, a seed must be in a cool, dry environment, one practically void of oxygen. Once moisture and oxygen enter the environment, the seed wants to sprout. But if the seed hasn't been properly stored, it may fail to germinate, even when planted in an environment of near perfect conditions.

For example, if seed has been stored in a shed in which temperatures may drop to freezing and rise to the blistering hell that is Phoenix in the summer, it may no longer be viable. I've kept many of my seeds in air tight containers, the kind used by crafters to separate their beads. But I also have some in packets in a plastic container. Some packets are opened, some are not.

Seeds in Bead Containers

A good way to store seeds is to add a thin layer of rice or powdered milk to a glass jar, place the seed packet in the jar, seal it and put the jar in the fridge. If the seeds aren't in packets, cover the rice or powdered milk with a bit of cheesecloth or tissue, and pile in the seeds. Be sure to mark the jar to note what kind of seeds are inside.

I haven't  done any of this, so I don't know how viable my older seeds are in terms of germination, and if they have the potential to produce. But I can't conceive of throwing away seeds without giving them a chance to grow, to thrive, to bear fruit. So throughout the summer, I'm going to keep adding seeds to pots, and to the soil beds, and to the aquaponics grow bed. 

The few packets that I've purchased within the last few months I'll store in glass jars, and find a place for them in the fridge. It's the practical thing to do.

Free Style Gardening

 

Okra Seedling from Older Seed Packet

Other than that, though, I'm thumbing my nose at the searing summer heat and arid winds, and last season's poor harvests,  and planting seeds without rhyme or reason.  I'm working without a plan, without a net, without a chart downloaded from a Master Gardener website that tells me when to plant, where to plant it and what other plants to plant it with.

It's free style gardening in the summer time. And I have no idea what my gardens will grow.

Basil in a Kratky Can

Update: You can watch the video on the Kratky method, and how I used it to grow basil in a coffee can on YouTube: 

The Kratky Method of Hydroponics: Growing Basil in a Coffee Can

And the updated video as well:

Kratky Method of Hydroponics Update: The Basil in a Can

(2025)

Basil in March in Kratky Can

Some time back we tried a strawberry plant in a kind of miniature Kratky hydroponic system, using a coffee can. Though the strawberry plant didn't thrive, I wasn't ready to abandon the experiment. 

So now we're re-doing the experiment, this time with sweet basil.

The basil is doing well, and I'm already harvesting stems from the plants. The plants do draw up quite a bit of nutrient solution from the limited reservoir, and of course here in Phoenix, the solution is also subject to evaporation.

Basil in April in Kratky Can

To keep the water level high enough to maintain the plants, I simply dip into the fish tank in the aquaponics system and add that nutrient rich water to the can. The basil plants love this stuff.

So, I'm counting this Kratky in a Can experiment a success. The leaves are large and flavorful; the roots are dense and of good color; and the plants continue to thrive using the fish water as a nutrient solution.

Back in the Soil Garden
Meanwhile, back in the beds in the soil garden, the veggies are coming in agonizingly slow. I've put up the sunshades so the beds don't get overly warm in the mid-day sun. Just a few weeks ago, I was covering them in blankets to protect them against the frosts.


Sun Shades for the Garden

I've talked with other gardeners here in the valley of the sun, and I'm hearing the same thing. We're looking to start harvesting some of the early veggies - the first batch of tomatoes, an eggplant or two, a few peppers. Instead, our tomatoes are just starting to think about turning red; our peppers aren't fattening up yet; and the squash is still half asleep.

We're all blaming it on the late winter cold snaps.

But the temperatures are climbing quickly now, with daytime temps in the 80s and 90s. The nights, though, are still cool; I'm hoping everything kicks into high gear before the dreaded summer heat settles in.

Thinking about the Fall Garden

Emerging Eggplant

So while I wait for the spring garden to come to harvest, I'm thinking about what I want to plant in September and October, when the weather cools and it's time once again to plant the seedlings started weeks ago, when the weather was so hot we used oven mitts to drive until the air conditioning kicked in.

It's May, so I want to start seeds in about a month. I want to start some pumpkin and spaghetti squash, leeks and broccoli, and of course, tomatoes. I'll use a fast growing tomato, such as Early Girl, to get a harvest before it's a little too chilly.

And I'm thinking about some pinto beans and snap beans, and maybe some peas and carrots, along with cucumbers. I'm thinking the cucumbers just might thrive during the still warm, but not blazingly hot days in September and October. If we have a good November -sunny and warm- I'll have cucumber salad for Thanksgiving.

And by then, I'll be ready to put in the winter garden.  

The Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit

Update: The information is the same now as when this was first posted, in February of 2013. The exception is I stated the cost of the kit as about four dollars. The price has changed, so check with your local nursery outlet for current costs. (2025)

You can watch a demonstration video of how to use the Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit on YouTube

How to Use the Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit in Your Garden

Before spring planting, which here in Phoenix is as early as January but no later than the end of February, I add a fresh layer of garden soil to the beds. I like to use the permaculture method, meaning I don't till the soil or turn it over. Rather, after the plants are removed, I just add another layer of soil, so as not to disturb the existing microbial community within the beds.

I also like to test the soil for nutrient value at that time to ensure each bed can support its intended plants.

The Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit is available at home improvement stores and garden centers at a reasonable cost - around $4 a kit. Now, I have seven beds in my garden. So if I test each bed, I can expect to pay around $30 to test the entire garden if I buy the kits separately. Buy in bulk, though, and that cost is reduced.

Why bother testing? Well, if you know what the nutrient content is in your soil, you can better choose which fertilizer to use,or better understand why certain plants aren't thriving.

For example, broccoli needs a lot of nitrogen. If the broccoli leaves look yellowish and the plants aren't producing heads, you can use a test kit to determine if the soil nitrogen level is too low. Add blood meal to the bed and your broccoli hopefully will recover and thrive.

Macro Nutrients
The Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit lets you test for nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, all macro nutrients essential for healthy vegetables.

Nitrogen (N) is directed to leafy growth and stem growth. Without sufficient nitrogen, the plant is unable to properly develop its 'vascular system', the means by which nutrients are transported throughout the plant.

Phosphorous (P) is essential to the process of setting fruit. Without phosphorous, the plant struggles to develop a strong root system and is unlikely to flower. If a plant doesn't flower, it doesn't produce fruit or develop seeds for propagation.

Potassium (K) helps plants resist disease and is akin to a multi-vitamin; it promotes general overall health in the plant.

My Assessment
I like using the Ferry Morse Soil Test Kit for my garden beds. It's an easy test to use, and each unit costs only about $4 at local outlets, but you can find it online in bulk; you'll get a decent discount buying them that way.

It's an uncomplicated test that doesn't require anything more than a soil sample, water and a bit of your time. Essentially, I use the tests once a year and am satisfied with the product.

Kratky in a Can Update
Unfortunately, the strawberry plant installed in my coffee can Kratky system didn't survive. I don't fault the methodology of the experiment. Rather, the onset of cold weather and the plant's exposure to it likely damaged the roots - the water was a bit frozen the morning after I had forgotten to take the plant inside.

I want to repeat the experiment. A strawberry plant may not have been the ideal subject, either. I'm going to use sweet basil for my next test subject because we've had good luck with basil in other hydroponic methods; the herb is well suited to the watery environs of hydroponics.

Landscaping Projects
Spanish Dagger trees are common here in Phoenix, and you can get some tips on how to trim these long-lived agaves in our video, "How toTrim a Spanish Dagger Tree."

If you have an unwanted cactus in your yard, watch our video, "Removing a Small Cactus from Your Yard". 

And finally, we'll start planning for new landscaping, as the install of a new sewer line presented and opportunity to update the backyard. In an upcoming post, we'll show you what we come up with. 

Disclaimer: Ferry Morse did not supply me with this product. I paid for it myself.

Frostbit Garden and Starting Seeds

Frostbit tomato plants

Update: The strawberry plant in the Kratky can was transplanted, but failed shortly after. The seeds did fairly well, as I recall; a 60 to 75 percent is average for germination and reaching the seedling stage, and from there, about two-thirds of the plants come to fruition. And the tomatoes were tasty, both from the box and bowl.

October, 2025

Despite my efforts during the cold snap, most of my vegetable plants died of frostbite. A sad thing indeed.

The plants in the aquaponics grow bed survived, but there's little growth. When we built the aquaponics system, we placed the bed in a partially shaded area for two reasons. The fish barrel needs to be in full shade so the fish survive the summer heat. They don't mind the cold - goldfish can live beneath ice- but they don't like those high temperatures.


Aquaponics bed

The bed is in partial shade because, again, the summer heat is so brutal. However, the area is getting too little sunlight in these winter months, and the cool weather greens are not growing as quickly as they should. So we'll be doing some changes to the system within the next few weeks and try to find the optimum location for the grow bed and the fish.

The beds in the soil garden out back are pretty well emptied, so I've started my seeds, and hope I'll have seedlings by mid-to-late February. Then, I'll have to start thinking of protecting the tender plants from the heat in June and July, as everything comes to harvest.

Starting seeds

While most of the country plants in early spring, in March or even as late as April, we in Phoenix need to plant in January and February. By June or July, veggies like tomatoes and cucumbers are curling up their leaves and calling it quits. It's just that hot. So we set our seeds outside in January, while everyone else shovels snow.
I've started seeds for a variety of plants: okra, snap peas, beets, sweet peppers, jalapeno peppers, Anaheim peppers, and red hot cherry peppers. I've also planted yellow squash, zucchini squash, yellow pear tomatoes and beefsteak tomatoes, and cucumbers.

Before I put the seedlings into their beds, though, I'll test the pH of the soil, as well as nutrient content. Before I do that I'll add some new compost and top soil. We'll video the testing and share that with you.

Strawberry plant on 1/23/13

Meanwhile, my tomatoes are ripening in the box and in the bowl. I'll roast those up and use them on pizza.

The strawberry plant in the Kratky can is still with us, and though the one stem is a little weak, we're seeing some new growth. So far, so good.

Saving the Tomatoes

Draping the garden against the cold

First Published Jan 11, 2013

Update: This is still relevant today, as for many, many generations, gardeners have gathered green tomatoes and stashed them safely against the harsh elements of winter.

Thanks for reading. October 2025

In Phoenix, Arizona, the growing season is nearly year round; people plant tomatoes in September and October because we have such mild winters. Sometimes, though, even the valley of the sun experiences near freezing temperatures and we have to cover up the plants, from ornamentals to small shrubs to the vegetable garden out back.

Our back garden looks a bit like a refugee camp for wandering veggies. Drive through the neighborhood and you see old sheets and blankets draped over hedges. But if it saves the plants, then drape we shall.

Ripening tomatoes in a box

One problem I'm having though, because of this cold snap, is the green tomatoes won't ripen. It's simply too cold. So I'm going to try and ripen them off the vine (though tomato plants are not actually vines). According to B. Rosie Lerner, writing for Purdue Yard and Garden News, the optimum temperature range for tomatoes to ripen on the vine is 68 to 77 degrees, not usually a problem here in Phoenix in the usually warm and mild winter months.

This year, though, it's cold. So I've taken the large green tomatoes off the plants and I'm going to try and ripen them in the house.

There's no dearth of suggested methods for ripening tomatoes off the vine. I can place them in an open paper bag with a banana. The ethylene gas from the banana hastens ripening.

Ripening tomatoes in a bowl

I can put them in a crate cushioned on straw or crumbled newspaper, and set the crate in a warm, unlit place. Sunlight isn't an essential element, so say some, when ripening tomatoes in this fashion.

Others say to put the green tomatoes on a window sill, and let the sun do its job.

I don't have any bananas at the moment, nor do I have a crate. But I do have a light bulb box and a bowl. So I'll put a few tomatoes in the box and set then out of the light, and some in a bowl in indirect sunlight.

Then we'll see what happens next.

The strawberry plant is still alive

In the meantime, the Kratky in a Can experiment is doing well; the strawberry plant is still alive. I bring it in at night during this cold weather, and set it out again in the early morning.

But cold weather notwithstanding, it's time to get ready for spring. I'm going to start seeds for greens and tomatoes and summer squash, but that's all for another post.  

Welcome to just az gardens

First Published Jan 2, 2013

Update: The just az gardens have changed quite a bit since this post. The aquaponic bed has been replaced with a sleeker version, and the back garden has undergone a renovation, a conversion to container gardening. But the post is still relevant, and as good a place as any to start.

Thanks for reading. October, 2025

An original aquaponics bed

Gardening is as much an art form as it is a science. It is a hobby and a means of survival. You can grow fruit and vegetables, herbs, flowers, shrubs and trees. You can grow plants in soil, as we do in our own vegetable garden, or you can use hydroponic methods, in which the plants are nourished with nutrient rich water - no soil required.

And then there is aquaponics, the system based on a symbiotic relationship between fish and plants, in which fish water is used to nourish plants installed in a grow bed. You can learn more about aquaponics in our video series on YouTube.

For us, gardening isn't just about growing plants. It's about finding different ways to grow them. At just az hydroponics, we focus on soilless methods of growing plants. We believe it's important to understand and utilize these methods because in places like the southwest desert, soil gardening is a challenge.

But we also have a backyard garden, because I like the feel of soil in my hands, and the way gardening in soil creates a connection to the earth itself. My backyard garden is akin to a meditation room, except my journey to inner piece includes calluses and cuts and bug bites.

The video in this first post of just az gardens is our experiment with the Kratky method of hydroponics. You can read more about this method on the justaz.com website. Over the next few weeks or so, we'll track the progress of the experiment and post the results in this blog.

Next week, we're going to look at what to plant in January in your soil garden in Phoenix, and preparing for a container garden on the front porch.